Now things get more tricky. If you have been avoiding angled joints, or maybe you tried and messed up a few (hey, I think that is everyone who has tried them) I want to put them in general categories with different levels of potential difficulty.

This is not to show detailed, step-by-step processes. Rather, I just want state the general ideas from which you can develop your specific methods. 

So let’s start with the easy group. This is where the joint angle goes across the width of one or both pieces. The length of the piece is simply cut at an angle, ideally on an accurate table saw crosscut jig. 

The photos below show two examples. One is a piece with a 90° edge matched with a piece with an angled edge. The other is a pair of pieces that each have an angled edge.

No problem. These can go directly to your dowel jig, Domino, or mortising jig. Plan the position and length of the holes or mortises. They are cut at 90° to the angled edge of each piece.

Now it gets harder. The angle is at the edge of the thickness of one or both pieces, placed at the end of the length of the piece(s).

The photo at the top of this post shows the angled edge of each of two pieces. The angled piece can be joined to another angled edge or simply to a flat edge.  

The first photo below shows a pair of angled end-grain edges across the flat width of each piece. 

The next photo below is to imitate a chair joint. (To make the photo of the unassembled pieces easier, I placed the “chair” upside down.) The angled-end piece, at 2°, meets the long grain of the “chair leg”.

These are examples of where things get trickier to make. Why? Because we have to join the angled edge to a flat surface. The flat surface can simply be square to the board as in the two photos below, or can be an angled flat surface of the other piece. The joint cutter must be at the angle of the angled piece(s).

For this job, there are many options. Domino can work well, though there must be good placement and grip of the machine. Any angle can be set. DowelMax makes a doweling jig, though it works at only 45°, which will build a box or similar items. The Leigh FMT and Woodpecker MultiRouter (both are expensive, as are Dominos) can do a really nice job. I suggest making a pair of mortises and a free tenon for an easier job. The Leigh FMT works well for me for this task. It is precise and reliable. The PantoRouter looks like it also could certainly do the job. 

JessEm has a Doweling Jig Workstation. I have not used it but I was not impressed by what I saw online, along with the related (?) Pocket Mill Pro. There is also many other machines that can do this task, many high priced, which I am not familiar with.    

What about angling a conventional drill press? Yea, maybe, but getting perfect, steady angles that give good joint matchup is difficult. Not my choice. I also suppose something could be worked out with a benchtop mortiser, but I have never been a fan or owned one of those. 

With all of this, remember that you are cutting square to the joint surface of the angled piece(s) and the square-edge of the other part of the joint if that is how it is set up. 

With good equipment and planing, we can reliably make these joints!

Now, there is one more problem. Though I have done it in building, I have to say it is difficult. This is when a part of the joint is curved AND has an angled edge. With a tenon, or a mortise and a loose tenon, it meets a flat surface. The photo below shows an example. 

Sometimes, this can be done when the wood has not yet been curved on its main surface, but not always. Sometimes handwork is the best and fastest way. It does take careful work!

Well, we’ve done it! We have covered a full range of joinery that I have labelled as “end to side-edge joinery.” Again, the idea of all of this is to organize the workable, practical systems and tools that allow you to choose how you can comfortably and effectively guide your woodwork. I think that the age of the traditional mortise and tenon is largely over for most woodworkers.

I hope it helps!

Is this a strong joint? No. Useful? Yes. It is helpful where connection is otherwise awkward and high strength is not needed. 

It does not make the show for looks either. Yet sometimes that is no factor at all because it lives unseen.

A veneer table top is a nice example. Screw the top to the side braces below. Unless the table is dragged around with heavy weight on it, and as long as the veneer is bound to a largely unchangeable base like MDF, it will be fine. If the table top is regular, jointed wood, it can be screwed at central points on the sides, or on one side, while the remainder has, for example, the slotted L joints that allow seasonal movement. 

It is really just another example of keeping your arsenal in mind. Me? Yea, I screwed in place one spot of a small table top with two long holes and screws. Well, it worked, but if you get underneath the table, you can find my sloppy work. Sure, the owner and no one else will care or probably ever see it. But that was a lousy part of an otherwise nicely made table. Why? Because it did not step back and review my options, including what sat on a shelf a few feet away from me.

This is the key to this series of posts: Know, understand, and consider your viable building and joint options to make the project as well as you really want to, with the most viable and practical construction options.   

I find the best tool for the kind of screw joint covered here is the Kreg. It allows the slanted hole to be drilled accurately and steadily. The screw is also easy to drive in. It is too easy to go wrong without this help.

This post shows the simple version that covers my needs. Kreg has much more elaborate models. I am also showing the small #7 1-1/4” finely threaded screw. Much thicker, longer, and coarsely threaded screw systems are available. I still do not consider these a very strong joint but, again, it is a very nifty system to meet the strength and looks needs for the situation. 

Well, there is only one more topic – a tricky one –  to cover the “end to side-edge joinery” in this long series. That is: ANGLES! Various sorts – some easy, some tricky. Coming next. 

The biscuit joiner just slightly makes the list of techniques for edge to side-edge joinery. It is not a strong or deep joint but it is easy to do. It does have a useful role.

A machine for this can cost less than a $100 if you dare, $250 for a good DeWalt, or a thousand or two for Lamello exotics. I have had a DeWalt for many years without failure. It is handy to have the dust collection attachment. Now, niftier than my old DeWalt is their brushless, cordless version.

Wood biscuits that range in size from small to large (#0, #10, and #20) cover all work for me. The biscuits are only 5/32” thick. They fit snugly into the slots. I have never tried the plastic versions. 

I have used biscuits for light weight, small, thin shelves and side pieces. I would not rely on them for frame strength or any other real strength issue. 

The handiest role for biscuits is edge-to-edge joinery. That is, joining flat boards together to make a bigger flat board. Once you have flattened the pieces to thickness and planed the edges to produce the joints, it is invaluable to keep the thicknesses perfectly aligned. This saves you from a lot of unpleasant planing! 

So, for the end to side-edge joinery that I am discussing in this series of posts, biscuits are not a core item. Still, the biscuit joiner is certainly worth having in the shop for most woodworkers.

Next: we’ll discuss screws. What you say? Screws for real woodworking? Yes, they have a role!

This is a short post to summarize the glue joint distribution of dowel joinery that was discussed in detail in the last post and with excellent commentary from readers. 

Dowel joinery, properly done with good dowel layout and distribution is certainly strong enough. This has been well shown online, notably by DowelMax testing. Some, certainly not all, of the other testing shown online is invalid in my opinion.

Realistically, it is the portion of the joint where the attachment pieces (dowels or tenons) go across the grain of one of the two main components of the build where there is the potential for breaking apart. Yet this does not lead to broken joints if the sizing is properly done.

Dowel joinery creates different cross-grain conflict than mortise-and-tenon joinery. Some of the dowel meets the cross-grain of the built wood, but some of the dowel meets the end grain of the built wood. This makes it seem weaker, especially over time. However, the overall result still fares very well.

Dowel style – parallel or curled groves – probably matters little if at all.

The main credits for dowel joinery, in my view, are: 1) Decades of dowel joints that I built have never failed. There is plenty of building where I have not used them. Probably because I do not fully trust them in some situations.  2) Valid mechanical testing shows that dowel joinery meets or exceeds mortise and tenon joinery. 

So, after thinking through dowel joinery over and over, in numerous ways, it just cannot impress me. However, it works! Shown and proved. So I use it. Not always, but often.  

Next: Other ways to join wood. We are building to a summary of practical, convenient joinery to build things with. We’re getting there. 

Consider the strength of the end to side-edge joinery which we have put into three categories: mortise pair and free tenon, Domino, and dowel. 

When did you see a properly made joint fall? I never have in my work. The dowel joint gets the most criticism regarding strength. Let’s discuss that.

As an example, consider a 2 3/8” dowel joint with three 3/8” dowels that are set 3/8” apart and 1/4” from the edges. (As above photo.) We only need to examine the cross grain part of the joint. The other half – dowel grain entirely inline with the wood grain – will really not break for practical reason. 

Based on the number of dowels and their diameters, the total glue width is 3.5”. As a mortise joint, we are gluing 3.9” width. This assumes not applying glue to flat or curved outer tenon edges to allow space for a bit of seasonal movement. Nor would the bond grip well there. We also assume the depth of the joint is the same for dowel and mortise. 

Also, note that some of the dowel side area, though entirely glued, does not grip as well since it is attached to opposite grain direction. It is hard to say at what stage of the circle this changes for better.

So, the dowels use a little less glue joint area than mortise joints, but not much. Working out a similar example using 1/2” dowels in a 2 1/2” wide joint, gives 4.7” of glue width. The mortise joint has less at 4” of width. 

By the way, wedged tenons – either at the central end or on the sawn and angled wide sides – have a distinct strength advantage. For that we have to award the strength contest to mortise and tenon.  

Basically, to compare mortise and tenon joints with properly made dowel joints is a close call for strength in my opinion. 

The best joint strength contests that I have seen online are done by the DowelMax. They look careful and legitimate. Dowel joints win. Dominos come in third place.  

All of this is not a science project. I simply am saying that joint strength is not a good reason to oppose dowel joinery. Again, it must be properly done, like all joinery. 

Let’s give the appropriate, but commonly opposed credit to dowel joinery: strength. It also is convenient, fast, and cost efficient for good tools. Pieces that I have made months ago as well as decades ago with plenty of dowel joinery have never failed!

Once again, I list the three main joints I use and recommend for woodworking: Pair of mortises with free tenon, Domino, Dowels. 

But which of the three have I now come to choose most of the time? The answer is coming but anyway, my choice may not be your best choice. 

Having a realistic practical choice is what matters for each woodworker. Hopefully this series helps you choose. 

More to come.

Dowel joinery. It takes little equipment. Even beginners can do it with care. Yet among many woodworkers, it just does not get the states it deserves. Let’s consider.

I learned the principle and technique mainly from pages 130 – 140 of The Fine Art of Cabinet Making, by James Krenov, published in 1977 and read by me just several years later. I had Tage Frid’s book Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking first and thought that explained dowel joinery. Despite lots of other great instruction by Frid, the dowel procedures were no match to Krenov’s book.  

I highly recommend reading the late, great Krenov’s work in that book, and his other four books. I will discuss that in upcoming posts. 

In the photo below, see the collection of remaining jigs for doweling that are directly based on Krenov’s writing. I used these for many years. They worked well. Now I usually use factory made jigs that make the job easier and faster.

There are two main issues with dowel joinery. First, as with almost all joinery, is strength. Bottom line: Yes, made well, they are plenty strong, including compared with mortise and tenon, and with Domino. The best strength assessment based on mechanical destruction that I have seen online is done by the DowelMax man. Find it at dowelmax.com

The second big issue is accuracy. Drilling the holes is easy but the sets of holes on the boards being joined must be placed correctly. In other words, the two groups of holes must align together exactly to allow the boards to join exactly where you want them. Unlike tenons and Dominos, you cannot slice away bits of dowels to allow the boards to shift. Well, you actually can do this a little with dowels but strength is reduced quickly.

I like the JessEm jig (above) – very straight forward – and the Woodpeckers jig (below) – allows more dowel placement variation and length alignment. DowelMax jigs look great and have some nice placement and angle options. I have not used them but they have great reviews.

So, now we have covered three winning joinery systems which are convenient, strong, and make great woodworking: 

Pair of mortises with free tenon

Domino

Dowel joinery 

Upcoming: More dowel joint strength discussion, angled joints, biscuits, and screws. They all belong in the shop.

Before we get to dowel joinery and angled joinery, let’s briefly cover some more options for joining with a pair of mortises and a loose tenon.

I mentioned the Multi-Router. It has been around for a long time and now done by Woodpecker. Then there is the PantoRouter, designed by a very clever engineer prolifically online. I have not used either of these. Their prices are large but they probably are great. 

Another remarkable tool is the Leigh FMT. (Photo above.) This makes actual mortise AND tenons. It has precise adjustments for both parts, and a fairly wide range of joint sizes. (Why, I do not know, but I have one, having bought it just days before meeting up with a major brain hemorrhage. See the July 7, 2005 post.) 

I see little point in using the tool to make tenons because, as I have said, I see little point in directly making tenons on a half of the joint. (Free tenons are the way to work with rare exceptions.) And because there is some fairly tedious adjustment to make the tenon match the easy-to-make mortise, it will 99% just be a mortise maker for me to use once in a while. It is very good at angled joints, including mortise + mortise with a free tenon.

I have never used a Rockler Bead Lock. It makes a row of linked mortises, into which loose tenons are inserted. From seeing some demos online and trying to understand how it functions, it is not something that will join my shop.

The Kreg Mortise Mate uses a powered drill bit like a router bit. It makes mortises that are similar to Domino but not as good. Apparently, it is related to a JessEs system. Again, though I have not used one, I am not impressed with the performances that I have seen online, nor with the overall logic of the system. 

Ok, it is now time to bring in the dowel joint – coming in the next post – and after that, I’ll cover the angled joint. The dowel joint has been fighting for a reputation for many decades. It is often highly underestimated! Even James Krenov was a wide user. Discussion coming up next!  

Progressing in the discussion of mortise and tenon joinery, it is now time to bring in Domino. 

Put simply, it is a way to make a pair of matching mortises into which is placed a manufactured tenon. Properly set up, it gives fast, precise mortising and an accurately fitting tenon. We all know Domino.

I bought a new Domino 500 18 years ago. It can be seen from old posts that I had some difficulty with its accuracy. I had to build in some refinement to make it right. 

But why do I not use the fast, easy, clean Domino for everything where a mortise and tenon is needed?

There are three limitations: 

1) Limited tenon length. The largest single tenon with the Domino 500 is 50mm (2″ long and 8 or 10mm thick). There are plenty of places where I want the greater strength of a tenon joint that goes in further than one inch (50mm tenon).

2) I usually want wider tenons. I can use two or more Domino tenons and that will give the needed joint strength. Still, sometimes I want a single width tenon.

3) The Domino is expense. Currently, the 500 is now about $1350. Sure, it is really worth it, but it may be out of range for some folks.

The Domino 700, more expensive, has a capacity for much longer tenons (some longer than I think I would ever need). That will take care of your big constructions. It does not have the handy smallest versions taken care of by the 500.

For most woodworkers, the Domino 500 is probably the more versatile choice, but look at both if you are going to unload the cash. Bottom line: I still think it is worth it.

So now I have gone through two major suggestion categories:

1. Mortise Master. Low cost, reliable, good range of mortise sizes (and therefore, tenons). More work, dusty. Several alternatives are around.

2. Domino. High cost, reliable, good but limited range of mortises. Convenient work, great dust collection. 

Two other highly versatile machines, which I have no experience with, can also cover your mortise and tenon joinery (along with of other joints): the Woodpeckers Multi-Router and the PantoRouter. 

And here, I’m afraid that I have to say it: the 4000 year old mortise and tenon is largely history. It is rarely, if ever, needed. There are faster, easier, and strong options.

But what, there are two big categories left to discuss:

Dowel joinery

Angled joinery

We’ll get there, and more, in upcoming posts.