{"id":6264,"date":"2020-01-12T15:27:11","date_gmt":"2020-01-12T20:27:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/?p=6264"},"modified":"2021-06-09T15:40:13","modified_gmt":"2021-06-09T19:40:13","slug":"a-novel-cross-rail-joint-part-3","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2020\/01\/12\/a-novel-cross-rail-joint-part-3\/","title":{"rendered":"A novel cross-rail joint, part 3"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\"dowel<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The dowel jig for this joint is simple but it must be accurate<\/strong>. Use a fine-grained, very hard wood. I used some of my old stock of bubinga, one inch thick. The width of the jig must fit snugly into the dado, 5\/8″ in this case. A little extra length helps in handling the jig.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Make sure:<\/strong> all faces are flat and straight, the width and thickness are uniform over the full length, and adjacent faces are dead square to each other. Most woodworkers will use a table saw to make this little block of wood, as I did. Please be cautious<\/strong> working such little pieces, and make use of an appropriate work handling device. I like the GRR-Ripper<\/a> for such work. It’s worth it. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Use a good brad-point bit to drill the 3\/8″ holes. The drill press must be set up to drill true at 90\u00b0 because the jig will be used from both<\/strong> drilled faces. If the holes or the body of the jig is out of square, the joint will be inaccurate and difficult or impossible to assemble. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

The spacing<\/strong> of the holes is not critical but leave enough room for pass holes, countersunk at both ends, for two #6 x 1 1\/4″ fixation screws<\/strong>. Attach a cleat<\/strong> with little screws at the end of the jig. It extends about 3\/8″ beyond each drilled face, and will reference it to the edge of the workpiece. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is how the dowel jig will sit in the dado:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"dowel<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Next:<\/strong> using the jig.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

The dowel jig for this joint is simple but it must be accurate. Use a fine-grained, very hard wood. I used some of my old stock of bubinga, one inch thick. The width of the jig must fit snugly into the dado, 5\/8″ in this case. A little extra length helps in handling the jig.   […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[43],"class_list":["post-6264","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-techniques","tag-cross-rail-joint"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6264","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=6264"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6264\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6333,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/6264\/revisions\/6333"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=6264"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=6264"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=6264"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}