{"id":3601,"date":"2015-07-31T23:58:45","date_gmt":"2015-08-01T03:58:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/?p=3601"},"modified":"2015-08-03T18:44:32","modified_gmt":"2015-08-03T22:44:32","slug":"shop-made-dowel-former","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2015\/07\/31\/shop-made-dowel-former\/","title":{"rendered":"Shop-made dowel former"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3602\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3823_edited-2.jpg\" alt=\"dowel former\" width=\"570\" height=\"344\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3823_edited-2.jpg 570w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3823_edited-2-150x91.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The otherwise excellent <a href=\"http:\/\/www.leevalley.com\/US\/wood\/page.aspx?p=65380&amp;cat=1,43456\" target=\"_blank\">square hole punches<\/a> from Lee Valley have a practical <strong>problem<\/strong> that I detailed <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2013\/02\/10\/lee-valley-square-hole-punches-and-dowel-former-a-suggestion\/\" target=\"_blank\">on this blog<\/a> more than two years ago, along with a suggested <strong>solution.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>In brief,<\/strong> the punches work beautifully to square the upper section of a round hole in applications such as a pegged mortise and tenon joint. The punches are sized from 3\/16&#8243; to 1\/2&#8243; in 1\/16&#8243; increments. Each requires boring a round hole 3\/64&#8243; less than the width of the punch and thus the use of <strong>unusually sized dowel pegs.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3606\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3828_edited-2.jpg\" alt=\"Lee Valley square hole punches\" width=\"570\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3828_edited-2.jpg 570w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3828_edited-2-150x118.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>For example,<\/strong> a 13\/64&#8243; hole is used with the 1\/4&#8243; punch. After forming the square portion, the round hole could reasonably be enlarged to 7\/32&#8243; but anything further would risk damaging the edges of the square. <strong>So,<\/strong> <strong>here&#8217;s the problem:<\/strong> how to obtain round pegs in diameters such as 13\/64&#8243;, 7\/32&#8243;, and so forth. Even Lee Valley, despite my suggestion, does not supply the equipment to make such dowels.<\/p>\n<p>There are methods demonstrated on the internet for making dowels using a portable power drill and clever shop-made cutters, but I prefer a <strong>simple dowel-former plate<\/strong> to make these short pegs. This is easily made from a piece of unhardened weldable steel, 1\/4&#8243; x 1 1\/2&#8243; x 5&#8243;, from the local hardware store. Rough-shaped stock is pounded through the holes to form the dowels.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Construction<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Use a drill press to bore two holes for each diameter, <strong>one for rough cutting and the other for finish cutting.<\/strong> The roughing holes are on the right side of the plate in the photo at top. Relieve the diameter of all holes by reaming from the exit end using a <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.com\/General-Tools-130-Handle-Reamer\/dp\/B00004T82J\" target=\"_blank\">General #130 6\u00b0 tapered reamer<\/a>, going to full depth for the roughing holes and about 1\/2 depth for the finishing holes.<\/p>\n<p>Deeply score the sidewalls of the <strong>roughing holes<\/strong> with a 2\/0 blade in a fret saw and a 4&#8243; double extra slim saw file. Use a small sharpening stone to cleanly remove the burr and create a sharp edge on the entry side of the holes. Use a countersink bit to lightly chamfer only the exit side of all holes.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Use<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Start by making stock from <strong>straight-grained wood,<\/strong> ideally riven, to a width slightly more than 1\/64&#8243; larger than the hole diameter. Trim the corners to make an approximately <strong>octagonal<\/strong> cross section. I prefer to use a small handplane for this step.<\/p>\n<p>Directions for using this type of plate usually recommend whittling an approximate taper on the blank to ease its entry into the hole. However, I&#8217;ve found the forming cutting goes much smoother and more balanced with a nicely\u00a0<strong>centered blunt entry point<\/strong> formed on the blank with a pencil sharpener or dowel pointer.<\/p>\n<p>Place the former hole over a dog hole in the workbench top. Use the roughing hole first, followed by the finishing hole. Pound the wood blank with a mallet, taking care to <strong>keep the blank perpendicular.<\/strong> Proceed until the blank is nearly flush with the plate, then use a narrower peg to tap it the rest of the way though. A piece of blue tape under the dog hole will catch the dowel, saving the frustration of looking for it on the floor.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3605\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3826_edited-2.jpg\" alt=\"shop-made dowel former\" width=\"570\" height=\"413\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3826_edited-2.jpg 570w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3826_edited-2-150x109.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3604\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3825_edited-2.jpg\" alt=\"shop-made dowel former\" width=\"570\" height=\"406\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3825_edited-2.jpg 570w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3825_edited-2-150x107.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I have found that the<strong> two-stage process<\/strong> produces smoother cutting and better dowels. <strong>The photo below<\/strong> shows, from left to right, a piece of shaped stock, rough dowels formed by the first step, and straight, smooth finished dowels in cherry, bubinga, and red oak.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-3603\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3824_edited-2.jpg\" alt=\"shop-made dowel pegs\" width=\"570\" height=\"266\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3824_edited-2.jpg 570w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2015\/07\/IMG_3824_edited-2-150x70.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 570px) 100vw, 570px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Ideally,<\/strong> this tool would be made of hardened tool steel like a genuine <a href=\"http:\/\/www.leevalley.com\/US\/wood\/page.aspx?p=70555&amp;cat=1,42524\" target=\"_blank\">Veritas<\/a>\u00a0or <a href=\"https:\/\/www.lie-nielsen.com\/product\/dowel-plate-standard\" target=\"_blank\">Lie-Nielsen<\/a> but that is beyond what I can accomplish in my shop. However, the shop-made version is inexpensive, easy to make, has any hole size you want, solves the problem with the square chisels, and <strong>works surprisingly well.<\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The otherwise excellent square hole punches from Lee Valley have a practical problem that I detailed on this blog more than two years ago, along with a suggested solution. In brief, the punches work beautifully to square the upper section of a round hole in applications such as a pegged mortise and tenon joint. The [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[9],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3601","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-jigs-and-fixtures"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3601","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=3601"}],"version-history":[{"count":12,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3601\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":3621,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/3601\/revisions\/3621"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=3601"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=3601"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=3601"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}