{"id":2497,"date":"2013-07-14T22:44:25","date_gmt":"2013-07-15T03:44:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/?p=2497"},"modified":"2020-09-16T14:20:41","modified_gmt":"2020-09-16T18:20:41","slug":"curved-sanding-blocks","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2013\/07\/14\/curved-sanding-blocks\/","title":{"rendered":"Curved sanding blocks"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2501\" alt=\"IMG_0528_edited-2\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0528_edited-2.jpg\" width=\"510\" height=\"376\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0528_edited-2.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0528_edited-2-150x110.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Sanding blocks with a curved face<\/strong>&nbsp;can be very effective for smoothing and, with coarse grits in the right circumstances, even shaping <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2013\/02\/18\/fairing-curves-trust-your-senses-part-1\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">curved surfaces<\/a> in furniture making. I use spokeshaves, specialty planes, rasps, and scrapers to <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2013\/02\/20\/fairing-curves-trust-your-senses-part-2\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">shape and smooth curved surfaces<\/a>, but not to the exclusion of the humble sanding block.<\/p>\n<p>They can be <strong>made quickly and easily<\/strong> with the bandsaw or bowsaw. <strong>For working concave surfaces,<\/strong> the curve of the block should be <strong>slightly steeper<\/strong> than the steepest part of the curve of the work piece. For convex work, a flat block is adequate for working shallow curves. For working steeper convex curves, the block&#8217;s curve should be slightly shallower than that of the work.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2499\" alt=\"IMG_0525_edited-2\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0525_edited-2.jpg\" width=\"510\" height=\"239\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0525_edited-2.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0525_edited-2-150x70.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The top of the block should be shaped <strong>friendly to the hand<\/strong> using saws and rasps. I like to steeply cut down the corner of the block near the base of my right thumb, as well as the diagonally opposite corner.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The backing surface for the sandpaper<\/strong> should be have some type of <strong>firm cushioning<\/strong>, similar to a random orbit sander. For most broad surfaces, I like the high-friction <strong>cushion material<\/strong> available in with a pressure-sensitive adhesive backing <a href=\"http:\/\/www.leevalley.com\/US\/wood\/Page.aspx?p=67844&amp;cat=1,43456,43465\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">from Lee Valley<\/a>. PSA-backed <a href=\"http:\/\/www.leevalley.com\/US\/wood\/page.aspx?p=49413&amp;cat=1,250,43298,43300\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">1\/16&#8243;-thick sheet cork<\/a> is <strong>firmer<\/strong> and thus good for narrower, smaller scale, or more detailed work.<\/p>\n<p>Cutting regular sandpaper sheets and wrapping them around these sanding blocks is particularly annoying because of the curved surface. I much prefer using <strong>PSA-backed sandpaper that comes in large rolls<\/strong>, such as that&nbsp;<a href=\"http:\/\/www.woodworkingshop.com\/product\/ar36742\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">available from Klingspor<\/a>. It is quick, effective, and wastes less sandpaper, especially if the block is made to the width of the sandpaper roll.&nbsp;It is also <strong>reduces hand fatigue<\/strong> because there is no need to grip the paper to the block.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2500\" alt=\"IMG_0527_edited-2\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0527_edited-2.jpg\" width=\"510\" height=\"351\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0527_edited-2.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/07\/IMG_0527_edited-2-150x103.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>A gum rubber block<\/strong> is usually associated with cleaning retained sanding dust from the sandpaper on power sanders, but it also works quite well on these sanding blocks, especially when doing heavy work.<\/p>\n<p>As with any sanding, it is important to remember that only <strong>the coarsest grit<\/strong> &#8211; the first one in the sequence &#8211; should do<strong>&nbsp;<\/strong>any required&nbsp;<strong> shaping.<\/strong> (Though most or all of the shaping will have already been done with other tools.) All the subsequent grits simply <strong>remove the scratches<\/strong> made by the previous grit until the surface is smoothed to your satisfaction.<\/p>\n<p>In time, one accumulates a <strong>small collection<\/strong> of these curved sanding blocks, so some will coincidentally be just right <strong>for future projects.<\/strong> This is simple, effective woodworking &#8211; one more tool for working with <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2010\/11\/17\/laying-out-curves\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener noreferrer\">curves.<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sanding blocks with a curved face&nbsp;can be very effective for smoothing and, with coarse grits in the right circumstances, even shaping curved surfaces in furniture making. I use spokeshaves, specialty planes, rasps, and scrapers to shape and smooth curved surfaces, but not to the exclusion of the humble sanding block. They can be made quickly [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[5],"tags":[46],"class_list":["post-2497","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-techniques","tag-curves"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2497","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2497"}],"version-history":[{"count":8,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2497\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":6771,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2497\/revisions\/6771"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2497"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2497"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2497"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}