{"id":2335,"date":"2013-04-22T03:40:33","date_gmt":"2013-04-22T08:40:33","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/?p=2335"},"modified":"2013-04-22T10:44:48","modified_gmt":"2013-04-22T15:44:48","slug":"east-meets-west-my-saws-part-6","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2013\/04\/22\/east-meets-west-my-saws-part-6\/","title":{"rendered":"East meets West: My saws, part 6"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2340\" alt=\"IMG_0993_edited-2\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0993_edited-2.jpg\" width=\"510\" height=\"296\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0993_edited-2.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0993_edited-2-150x87.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Why part 6?<\/strong> <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/tag\/east-meets-west-my-saws-series\/\" target=\"_blank\">Parts 1-5<\/a>\u00a0were\u00a0posted in 2010, and cover the <strong>main<\/strong> Western and Japanese handsaws and joinery\/backsaws that I use. I have since added the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2012\/09\/15\/bad-axe-dovetail-saw\/\" target=\"_blank\">Bad Axe dovetail saw<\/a> to that group and it has risen to the head of the class.\u00a0This post will cover <strong>bowsaws<\/strong>. Part 7 will cover coping and fret saws. Part 8 will cover miscellaneous accessory saws. 18 saws isn&#8217;t a lot, right? Right.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The <a href=\"http:\/\/www.woodjoytools.com\" target=\"_blank\">Woodjoy<\/a> bowsaw,<\/strong> pictured above, is my <strong>bandsaw without a motor<\/strong>. Glenn Livingston produces this thoughtfully designed and beautifully made saw along with other excellent tools. It is a very sturdy tool with about 16&#8243; between the stiles. The <strong>toggle system<\/strong>\u00a0easily permits half turns, which is important in properly setting the blade tension.<\/p>\n<p><strong>The &#8220;Turbo-Cut&#8221; blade,<\/strong> listed at 400mm (15 3\/4&#8243;) long but with a comfortable 13 1\/2&#8243; of tooth line, has super-hard (&gt;Rc 70) Japanese-style teeth, 15 tpi. <strong>The pattern,<\/strong> which could be considered a modified ikeda-me, is seven three-bevel crosscut teeth followed by a pair of special rakers that have their end bevels cut in the opposite direction from those of the crosscut teeth. It <strong>crosscuts fast<\/strong>, and seems to <strong>rip even faster.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The blade is about 5\/16&#8243; wide, .024&#8243; thick, with the teeth widely set to a .048&#8243; kerf. This makes it surprisingly <strong>maneuverable<\/strong> following curves, though the cut is <strong>fairly rough<\/strong> across the grain.<\/p>\n<p>For power, comfort, and accuracy, I prefer to use this saw with a <strong>horizontal push cut,<\/strong> and the frame is <strong>plenty rigid enough<\/strong> for that. Some may prefer a horizontal pull cut, or a vertical push cut, though the latter may be difficult at typical workbench height.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2341\" alt=\"IMG_0994_edited-2\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0994_edited-2.jpg\" width=\"510\" height=\"383\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0994_edited-2.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0994_edited-2-150x112.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This is a fairly heavy saw, so here is how I hold it for cutting curves. I <strong>grip the handle with my dominant right hand,<\/strong> similar to holding a straight-handle dovetail saw, and align it with my right shoulder. This reliably <strong>steers<\/strong> the saw while my <strong>left hand provides passive support<\/strong> near the end of the rail. The saw works best when you <strong>let it do the work<\/strong> and <strong>use as much of the blade length<\/strong> as you can with every stroke.<\/p>\n<p>This saw could quite reasonably be used in a hand-tool-only shop <strong>in place of a bandsaw<\/strong> for roughing out <strong>curved table legs<\/strong> and other heavy curved work. It has <strong>the moxie and the control<\/strong> to easily handle 8\/4 maple.<\/p>\n<p>I like this size saw for <strong>curved work<\/strong>. Woodjoy also makes larger sizes, and Turbo-Cut blades are also available in 1 1\/4&#8243; width.<\/p>\n<p>I bought the <strong>bowsaw pictured below<\/strong> more than 30 years ago. It was made in Denmark by JPBO but, as far as I know, is no longer available. This is the model of saw that was preferred by the late great teacher <strong>Tage Frid<\/strong>. He used it with a horizontal push stroke for joinery and crosscutting, and vertically for ripping stock.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2339\" alt=\"IMG_0992_edited-2\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0992_edited-2.jpg\" width=\"510\" height=\"283\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0992_edited-2.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0992_edited-2-150x83.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Not long after buying it, I <strong>replaced the original blade<\/strong> with one labeled &#8220;The K and P Saw, Western Germany,&#8221; also no longer available. An excellent blade, it is <strong>tapered in thickness from the teeth to the back<\/strong>, so it can be prepared with very little set. The blade is about <strong>19&#8243; long<\/strong> and has 10 tpi, which I file <strong>rip.<\/strong>\u00a0Frid advocated a rip filing for both ripping and crosscutting.<\/p>\n<p>This saw is <strong>surprisingly light yet rigid<\/strong>, probably due to the width and orientation of the frame members &#8211; unlike most bowsaws, the wide dimension of the rail is horizontal. The <strong>toggle system<\/strong> is less refined than on the Woodjoy saw, but half turns are still possible by loosening and reinserting the toggle stick in the opposite direction, then retightening it.<\/p>\n<p>I find I get the <strong>best control and endurance<\/strong> by holding it by the lower part of the fairly wide stile.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2342\" alt=\"IMG_0997_edited-2\" src=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0997_edited-2.jpg\" width=\"510\" height=\"329\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0997_edited-2.jpg 510w, https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/04\/IMG_0997_edited-2-150x96.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 510px) 100vw, 510px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>This saw <strong>does not get a lot of use<\/strong> in my shop now but it is still handy to have for various ripping tasks. I find it is especially accurate and comfortable for <strong>cutting tenons<\/strong>, though I&#8217;m in the habit of using the ryoba for that.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Because I like using my bandsaw so much<\/strong> (&#8220;<a href=\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2010\/06\/15\/bandsaw-hand-tool-with-a-motor\/\" target=\"_blank\">the hand tool <i>with<\/i> a motor<\/a>&#8220;), I also don&#8217;t frequently use the Woodjoy bowsaw. Nonetheless, I still want both of these hand tools in my shop &#8211; they give me <strong>options<\/strong> and they&#8217;re ready when I want them.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Next:<\/strong> the fret saw and the humble coping saw.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Why part 6? Parts 1-5\u00a0were\u00a0posted in 2010, and cover the main Western and Japanese handsaws and joinery\/backsaws that I use. I have since added the Bad Axe dovetail saw to that group and it has risen to the head of the class.\u00a0This post will cover bowsaws. Part 7 will cover coping and fret saws. Part [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[19],"class_list":["post-2335","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tools-and-shop","tag-east-meets-west-my-saws-series"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2335","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=2335"}],"version-history":[{"count":15,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2335\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2372,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2335\/revisions\/2372"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=2335"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=2335"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=2335"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}