{"id":2015,"date":"2012-12-16T17:25:38","date_gmt":"2012-12-16T22:25:38","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/?p=2015"},"modified":"2012-12-21T01:31:09","modified_gmt":"2012-12-21T06:31:09","slug":"flush-cutting-options-and-an-easy-trick","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/2012\/12\/16\/flush-cutting-options-and-an-easy-trick\/","title":{"rendered":"Flush cutting – options and an easy trick"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Finishing off\u00a0dovetails, through tenons, and joint pegs<\/strong>\u00a0often involves crosscutting projections of wood\u00a0flush with the surface.<\/strong> Here I will discuss a few common ways to do this, each with its own set of problems, and present a simple solution that does not require a dedicated saw. Hint: the trick is hidden in the photo above.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The flush cut saw is one approach.<\/strong> This is a specialized saw with no set (see photos below) on either side<\/strong>, most commonly with a Japanese-style crosscut tooth pattern. A portion of the very thin and flexible saw plate can be laid flat and pressed against the wood<\/strong> while the handle end is raised to grasp. If it is initially prepared for use by stoning away the minute burr from the manufacturer’s sharpening, it leaves a perfectly smooth surface,<\/strong> with virtually no cleanup paring required.<\/p>\n

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No set:<\/strong><\/p>\n

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However,<\/strong> not surprisingly, this type of saw has a strong tendency to bind,<\/strong> even 1\/2″ or less into the cut. For a through tenon, you can avoid binding by making multiple approaches at the projecting wood from different sides, but this is usually not possible with dovetails.<\/p>\n

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Veritas<\/strong> addresses the binding problem with their flush cut saw, which has set, but only on the upper side.<\/strong> Binding is eliminated, but the saw inevitably tracks away from the surface,<\/strong> leaving a significant amount of wood remaining to pare, especially in wider cuts. I find this annoying,<\/strong> and also do not like the lack of control when sawing. The set could be reduced but with a concomitant tendency to increase binding.<\/p>\n

Here’s the simple solution<\/strong> using an ordinary flexible backless saw with a normal set. A Japanese crosscut kataba saw such as the Gyokucho 05<\/a> model works very well. It is very straight with very consistent set.<\/p>\n

First, determine the amount of set.<\/strong> I used dial calipers. The 05 saw is .028″ thick at the teeth and .020″ on the plate, which means the set is .004″ on each side. Feeler gauges or trial-and-error could also be used.<\/p>\n

Apply strips of blue tape on one side of the saw to slightly exceed the set<\/strong>. I used 3M #2080 tape, which is .003″ thick. I applied two layers, .006″, to build .002″ above the set. Enough of the saw plate is covered to give a reliable registration of the taped surface against the wood, while enough of the saw is free of tape to permit a useful depth of cut,<\/strong> about 3\/4″ in this case.<\/p>\n

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Flex the saw against the work, taking care to apply light pressure with your fingers on only the taped portion (see photo at top).<\/strong>\u00a0Saw with a gentle pull stroke and avoid pressure on the return stroke. Here’s what you get:<\/p>\n