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All would be right in the world of woodworking if<\/strong> we could saw perfectly to the line<\/strong> every time. Joinery would fit<\/strong> directly from the saw, everything would assemble neatly, we would never grow old, and pay no taxes. In the meantime, however, let us consider some ways to improve this ubiquitous woodworking task. The uncommon tips in these posts apply not only to hand sawing<\/strong>, but also machine sawing<\/strong> without a fence such as might be done with the bandsaw.<\/span><\/p>\n We know the basics:<\/strong> an appropriately designed, good quality saw, straight, properly sharpened and set. The work piece is securely held in an ergonomic position. The sawyer grips the saw properly with good hand-shoulder alignment, and produces even strokes engaging the length of the saw.<\/span><\/p>\n Tip #1: Consider the line and what it means.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n The idea here is to have mental clarity<\/strong> as to just what the line represents and thus how you will saw in relationship to it. Mental clarity precedes physical success.<\/strong> <\/span><\/p>\n Consider several scenarios.<\/span><\/strong><\/p>\n If the line is produced by drawing against a template<\/strong> as in, for example, sawing curved legs from rectangular blanks with the bandsaw, then the entire line is in the waste wood. If you split the line with the saw, there remains a half-line of extra wood to remove saw marks and fair the curve. If you want more margin for clean up, make a chunky line and saw right up to it without touching it. The key is to be clear about what you are aiming for and why.<\/strong><\/p>\n If you use a pencil to mark out pins from the tails<\/strong> you’ve sawn, the line is fully in keeper wood.<\/strong> If you split this line, the pins will surely be too small. If you saw to one side of it, and no more, things should work out fine.<\/span><\/p>\n If a part is marked to length<\/strong> by registering it with the end of another part which is thus used as a template, the line will be fully in waste wood. Splitting it with the saw will make the resulting piece too long, but perhaps this is a desired allowance to allow for shooting it just right. Sawing to fully remove the line<\/strong> would be an attempt to produce an exact match from the saw. Again, the intent<\/strong> should be thought out beforehand.<\/span><\/p>\n As another example,<\/strong> I set my mortise gauge so the two points are at exactly the width of the mortise and mark out the tenon with this setting. I run a pencil line so the point rubs against both sides of the “valley” of the scribed line. I then know that if I split<\/em> this line<\/strong> with my saw, the tenon will be just right.<\/span><\/p>\n Visually, I find it easiest to split a line with the saw.<\/strong> The visual cue is that as the cut proceeds I can see half of the line remains next to the kerf, and this remainder looks half as wide (easy to estimate) as the uncut line ahead. When sawing to one side of a line,<\/strong> it is easy to be too timid and leave extra wood, though if this is not excessive it may work out fine, allowing for a bit of clean up. Sawing to completely remove a line,<\/strong> but no further, is visually difficult since the result looks the same if you have done it just right or if you have sawn too far into the keeper wood.<\/span><\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.rpwoodwork.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2012\/04\/IMG_0586_edited-2.jpg\" "\\"IMG_0586_edited-2\\"")
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