Comments on: What they don’t tell you, part 7 – learning https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/12/19/what-they-dont-tell-you-part-7-learning/ inside the woodshop Wed, 13 Jan 2021 19:35:11 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.0 By: Rob https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/12/19/what-they-dont-tell-you-part-7-learning/#comment-440949 Wed, 13 Jan 2021 19:35:11 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=6871#comment-440949 Great, Rick. Yea, built-in fine adjustment capability is better than the all-in/going for broke methods commonly recommended.
Good luck with it. A shooting board will be one of the most useful tools in your shop.
Rob

]]> By: Rick H https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/12/19/what-they-dont-tell-you-part-7-learning/#comment-440897 Wed, 13 Jan 2021 16:21:21 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=6871#comment-440897 Thank you Rob, yes that is helpful. I love the usage of shims throughout the shop. From building the “microadjustability” into the underside of the E2 router table, to here with the subfence. I was looking at quite a few boards with the lag screws instead being bolts that were put into the main fence top down, that would then allow for adjustment of angles – the same way you’re doing with the shims in yours. I like your solution, so I will start there and see where we land!

Thanks again.

]]> By: Rob https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/12/19/what-they-dont-tell-you-part-7-learning/#comment-440693 Wed, 13 Jan 2021 01:25:06 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=6871#comment-440693 Hi Rick,

Yes, the slots for the lag screws allow for lateral adjustment of the poplar subfence. This not only allows for wear of the subfence but also allows for a precise initial setup. You can shift the subfence to just the right spot and then tighten the bolts.

The lags are in clearance holes (the slots) in the fence block. They are not driven through. (The threads do not engage.)

The subfence does not really contort when the lags are tightened because it has some stiffness of its own. Judicious placement of the shim(s) (and these, if any, are very thin, say .002″ or .004″) also helps avoid any tendency of the subfence to bow. And, a trace of concavity along the length of the subfence is not a bad thing. Convexity is bad because the workpiece can rock, leading to inconsistent results.

Consider too that you don’t always want to shoot dead square. Often you are building in a tiny bit of intentional out-of-squareness, especially in cabinet work. This is another reason for adjustability in the fence. This is homegrown microadjustability.

I hope this helps!

Thanks for reading.

Rob

]]> By: R Hickman https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/12/19/what-they-dont-tell-you-part-7-learning/#comment-440651 Tue, 12 Jan 2021 22:12:29 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=6871#comment-440651 Happy New Year RP,

I am going to pester you about your shooting board, as a LEARNER :) seriously though, I really appreciate the blog. I check frequently for new posts, so I don’t miss anything new.

When it comes to the shooting board post “My Shooting Board’ from December 2019, you use 2 lag screws to secure the subfence to the main fence. In the post you noted the lags are in “slots” so they can be adjusted laterally. Why would it need to be adjusted laterally? When too much of the subfence has been planed away?

With regard to the lag screws and the tape or paper for shimming. You mount the main block to the board, with the lag holes present. Then drive the lags through the main fence into the subfence, and adjust from there? Does the subfence not just get pulled into the main fence and contort into the main fences shape – hopefully it is square

Thanks,
Rick

]]>