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	<title>
	Comments on: A novel cross-rail joint, part 5	</title>
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	<link>https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/01/18/a-novel-cross-rail-joint-part-5/</link>
	<description>inside the woodshop</description>
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		<title>
		By: Rob		</title>
		<link>https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/01/18/a-novel-cross-rail-joint-part-5/#comment-396391</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Rob]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jan 2020 05:59:10 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=6338#comment-396391</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Dan,

I use 1/8&quot;-deep dadoes for this joint. That fully serves the purpose of the dado. In prototypes, 1/16&quot; was too little for comfort but I suppose 3/32&quot; would be OK.
 
The sliding dovetail is a great joint too. I have found that a non-tapered sliding dovetail longer than even about 2 inches or so is a royal PITA. So, use a tapered sliding dovetail for &gt; 2&quot;. The depth of the dovetail should be about half the thickness of the board but probably never more than that. For 3/4&quot; stock, I&#039;d say the minimum depth for a decent dovetail lock is about 1/4&quot;.

Keep in mind that the cross-rail joint is a poor choice for joining a shelf to the side of a bookcase because the half of the joint in the side of the case will not have long grain-to-long grain glue surface. The cross-rail joint would be good for joining a shelf to each of the opposite sides of a vertical partition in the case. For joining a shelf to the case side, go with the tapered sliding dovetail, except at the very top and bottom, of course.

Hope this helps. Good luck with the project.

Rob]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Dan,</p>
<p>I use 1/8&#8243;-deep dadoes for this joint. That fully serves the purpose of the dado. In prototypes, 1/16&#8243; was too little for comfort but I suppose 3/32&#8243; would be OK.</p>
<p>The sliding dovetail is a great joint too. I have found that a non-tapered sliding dovetail longer than even about 2 inches or so is a royal PITA. So, use a tapered sliding dovetail for > 2&#8243;. The depth of the dovetail should be about half the thickness of the board but probably never more than that. For 3/4&#8243; stock, I&#8217;d say the minimum depth for a decent dovetail lock is about 1/4&#8243;.</p>
<p>Keep in mind that the cross-rail joint is a poor choice for joining a shelf to the side of a bookcase because the half of the joint in the side of the case will not have long grain-to-long grain glue surface. The cross-rail joint would be good for joining a shelf to each of the opposite sides of a vertical partition in the case. For joining a shelf to the case side, go with the tapered sliding dovetail, except at the very top and bottom, of course.</p>
<p>Hope this helps. Good luck with the project.</p>
<p>Rob</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
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		<item>
		<title>
		By: Dan		</title>
		<link>https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2020/01/18/a-novel-cross-rail-joint-part-5/#comment-396386</link>

		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Dan]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 20 Jan 2020 04:30:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=6338#comment-396386</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[I will soon be building a 10 foot wide by 8 foot tall set of &quot;built-in&quot; book cases and this joinery is one I am considering for joining shelves to uprights.  My other considered joinery is tapered sliding dovetails which will put to good use the dovetail plane I purchased for a pittance maybe thirty years ago.  
I like the dowel and dado for the minimal reduction it affords with the shallow dados.
What is the minimum depth you would consider for the dados and same for a sliding dovetail?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I will soon be building a 10 foot wide by 8 foot tall set of &#8220;built-in&#8221; book cases and this joinery is one I am considering for joining shelves to uprights.  My other considered joinery is tapered sliding dovetails which will put to good use the dovetail plane I purchased for a pittance maybe thirty years ago.<br />
I like the dowel and dado for the minimal reduction it affords with the shallow dados.<br />
What is the minimum depth you would consider for the dados and same for a sliding dovetail?</p>
]]></content:encoded>
		
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