Comments on: Mahogany . . . or something like it, part 3 https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/ inside the woodshop Sun, 21 Oct 2018 04:27:50 +0000 hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=7.1 By: Rob https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/#comment-335355 Sun, 21 Oct 2018 04:27:50 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=5463#comment-335355 Hi Stephen,
Any rowed wood is likely to be difficult to plane. However, scraping and sanding work well, particularly with sapele because it is harder than mahogany and khaya. Those softer woods are often more difficult to get a good surface from the scraper. I think you’ll like ribbon-stripe sapele, it’s a good-looking wood.
Rob

]]> By: Stephen https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/#comment-335166 Sat, 20 Oct 2018 14:30:45 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=5463#comment-335166 I’ve yet to use any Sapele, some guys say it’s hard to work with because of the interlocking grain, some love working with it. Guess I’ll have to give it a try soon.
In the 60’s in junior high shop class I was fortunate to build a few projects from real Mahogany, to bad it’s so hard to come nowadays.

]]> By: Rob https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/#comment-330369 Mon, 01 Oct 2018 18:06:40 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=5463#comment-330369 OK, we have a winner! suh-PEE-lee it is. Thanks, Chris. Other sources confirm it too.
Rob

]]> By: Christopher Valois https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/#comment-330360 Mon, 01 Oct 2018 17:35:14 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=5463#comment-330360 Rob,

Dictionary.com reports the pronunciation as ‘suh-pee-lee’ …

Thanks so much for these recent articles !

Best,

Christopher Valois

]]> By: Rob https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/#comment-330342 Mon, 01 Oct 2018 16:06:20 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=5463#comment-330342 Yea, Mark, that’s another good option! Thanks.

Regarding toothing blades, I use one in my Veritas bevel-up jack plane, and also my “micro-toothed” scraper blade in the Veritas scraper plane. http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/
But I’d rather avoid the hand work and get it done with the Shelix cutterhead in my DW735 thickness planer. http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/tag/byrd-shelix-cutterhead-series/ And then only finish off with hand tools.

Thanks, Pete. I’m glad it’s helpful.

Rob

]]> By: Pete Owen https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/#comment-330333 Mon, 01 Oct 2018 14:42:49 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=5463#comment-330333 Interesting series, thanks for posting, it will be a handy reference.

]]> By: Mark Dennehy https://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2018/09/30/mahogany-or-something-like-it-part-3/#comment-330303 Mon, 01 Oct 2018 09:24:18 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=5463#comment-330303 As an alternative to skipping the handplane, there’s always the handplane with a toothed blade. I find that’s useful for flattening by hand, and then you can switch to either a very finely set smoothing plane for a last pass or two; or to the scraper.

http://www.stochasticgeometry.ie/2017/12/05/toothy-prep/

(That example was on some terrible oak, but I normally use that setup on sapele as well, I have an old #06 with a new toothed iron from Dictum which works quite well)

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