Yes, sure. That is always the question that arises with this sort of tool, and it is a fair question.

As with most things, there are different levels of quality. I think if you or I tried to make a ramped shooting board with the features, accuracy, and versatility of the Super Chute 2.0, we would find it very difficult to achieve and, ultimately, not worth our shop time.

Likewise, a low-budget import smoothing plane costs a small fraction of a Lie-Nielsen and is still a serviceable tool. It’s a question of what how you want to work, what you can afford, and what you can build in your shop. In any case, quality matters.

Thanks for the question, and thanks for reading.

Rob

I shoot with a L-N #9 miter which I like a lot, but, yes, a BU or BD jack works very well too. Of course, a sharp blade is essential for any plane you use.

I do think that the bevel-up planes have an advantage due to a thick blade being supported closer to the cutting edge, but the bevel-down planes work well if they are well-tuned, especially the chipbreaker/cap iron.

I prefer to grip the body of the plane over its throat (with the “hot dog” handle on the #9) and drive the plane with the heel of my hand, pushing my body weight into the stroke from the legs and hips.

Shannon,

Thanks.

Readers, to appreciate why Shannon’s endorsement is important, check out his Hand Tool School at http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/hand-tool-school-intro/

Rob