Comments on: Working with the Veritas scraping plane, part 3, microtoothing http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/ inside the woodshop Mon, 06 Feb 2012 03:35:14 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6 By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11219 Rob Sat, 24 Jul 2010 02:38:28 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11219 Aaron, The attack angle (aka cutting angle) is the bed angle for a bevel down plane, while for a bevel up plane it is the bed angle plus the honing angle of the blade. In general, a lower cutting angle, 45-50°, is used for tamer woods such as unfigured walnut or cherry. A higher cutting angle, 55-60° is typically used for difficult figured woods. Scraping is an alternative for difficult woods, especially when it is just too difficult to plane without tearout. Sanding, done skillfully and in the right situations, is another option, and, contrary to the view of some, is not a sin. Experiment!!! Tico, Thanks. Rob Aaron,

The attack angle (aka cutting angle) is the bed angle for a bevel down plane, while for a bevel up plane it is the bed angle plus the honing angle of the blade. In general, a lower cutting angle, 45-50°, is used for tamer woods such as unfigured walnut or cherry. A higher cutting angle, 55-60° is typically used for difficult figured woods. Scraping is an alternative for difficult woods, especially when it is just too difficult to plane without tearout. Sanding, done skillfully and in the right situations, is another option, and, contrary to the view of some, is not a sin. Experiment!!!

Tico,
Thanks.

Rob

]]> By: Tico vogt http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11208 Tico vogt Fri, 23 Jul 2010 23:47:44 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11208 Great post, comments, and replies! Tico Great post, comments, and replies!

Tico

]]> By: aaron http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11170 aaron Fri, 23 Jul 2010 11:50:48 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11170 thanks for making sense of that for me. At the other end of the spectrum, when would you use a very low angle plane for finishing - or would you? thanks for making sense of that for me. At the other end of the spectrum, when would you use a very low angle plane for finishing - or would you?

]]> By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11138 Rob Fri, 23 Jul 2010 00:22:34 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11138 John, Varies with different woods. Usually scraping gives a duller surface than planing but this can be improved with very thin scraping shavings. As the cutting angle of a plane gets higher, it increasingly has the characteristics of a scraper that is cutting thin shavings. (Type 2 chips in Dr Hoadley's terminology.) Practical examples: Figured bubinga is dense and wild: 55 or 60° planing vs thin-shaving scraping, not much difference. I'm scraping this bad boy. And it responds well to very fine finish sanding. Curly domestics: I'd rather plane them if I can. Very roey mahogany: get real and scrape. Fine finish sand. Also, it depends on the type of finish that will be applied. Oil vs film finish (shellac, varnish, etc.). Again, the key is that every wood and every project are different. Have a range of tools and skills to bring to bear as needed, and, most of all, experiment! Rob John,

Varies with different woods. Usually scraping gives a duller surface than planing but this can be improved with very thin scraping shavings. As the cutting angle of a plane gets higher, it increasingly has the characteristics of a scraper that is cutting thin shavings. (Type 2 chips in Dr Hoadley’s terminology.)

Practical examples:

Figured bubinga is dense and wild: 55 or 60° planing vs thin-shaving scraping, not much difference. I’m scraping this bad boy. And it responds well to very fine finish sanding.

Curly domestics: I’d rather plane them if I can.

Very roey mahogany: get real and scrape. Fine finish sand.

Also, it depends on the type of finish that will be applied. Oil vs film finish (shellac, varnish, etc.).

Again, the key is that every wood and every project are different. Have a range of tools and skills to bring to bear as needed, and, most of all, experiment!

Rob

]]> By: J Nelson http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11115 J Nelson Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:58:55 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11115 Rob, Do you see much difference in the final finish (chatoyance) of figured woods when you use scraping instead of planing? Rob,

Do you see much difference in the final finish (chatoyance) of figured woods when you use scraping instead of planing?

]]> By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11114 Rob Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:23:32 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11114 John, I usually give it a try with a plane as the first choice, then go to scraping if tear out is a problem. But on some nasty woods I just go straight to scraping. The main thing for me is having the tool and technique options to deal with just about any wood since a good majority of the wood I use is figured. Aaron, No sin in sanding. Sometimes that's the best choice. It's the results that matter. Enjoy. Rob John,
I usually give it a try with a plane as the first choice, then go to scraping if tear out is a problem. But on some nasty woods I just go straight to scraping.
The main thing for me is having the tool and technique options to deal with just about any wood since a good majority of the wood I use is figured.

Aaron,
No sin in sanding. Sometimes that’s the best choice. It’s the results that matter. Enjoy.

Rob

]]> By: aaron http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11097 aaron Thu, 22 Jul 2010 11:44:20 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11097 gotcha. yes you have a point there that I didn't think of. That interlocked grain was actually impossible for me to handplane without massive tearout, and it left too fuzzy of a surface with the regularly sharpened card scraper so I had to resort to sanding (blech!) That may have been a great place to use a true scraper plane like this nice Veritas one. thanks for your advice. gotcha. yes you have a point there that I didn’t think of. That interlocked grain was actually impossible for me to handplane without massive tearout, and it left too fuzzy of a surface with the regularly sharpened card scraper so I had to resort to sanding (blech!) That may have been a great place to use a true scraper plane like this nice Veritas one. thanks for your advice.

]]> By: J Nelson http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11074 J Nelson Thu, 22 Jul 2010 01:21:59 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11074 Rob, At what point do you decide to use a scraper instead of a plane? Do you intend to use it on some woods as a final surface preparation, or are you driven to it by tear-out? I hope this question makes sense. Rob,

At what point do you decide to use a scraper instead of a plane?

Do you intend to use it on some woods as a final surface preparation, or are you driven to it by tear-out?

I hope this question makes sense.

]]> By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11067 Rob Thu, 22 Jul 2010 00:25:10 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11067 John, Yes. Works well there to immobilize my bench on my varnished shop floor. The tape is stable just because there is a lot of weight over it, but in other situations the adhesive on the tape flows very easily and the tape therefore tends to shift. Aaron, My reasoning is that the card scraper is purely a finishing tool - the last step. Further, there's rarely a problem with chatter or hang-up or slicing with the card scraper. The situation I'm describing is using the scraping plane with the microtooth setup to take away shallow tearout while retaining the dimensional trueness that the machinery gave. Then finish off with a conventionally sharpened blade. But hey, it can't hurt to experiment and maybe your idea will suit your work, but no big loss if it doesn't. There's always more for all of us to discover! Rob John,
Yes. Works well there to immobilize my bench on my varnished shop floor. The tape is stable just because there is a lot of weight over it, but in other situations the adhesive on the tape flows very easily and the tape therefore tends to shift.

Aaron,
My reasoning is that the card scraper is purely a finishing tool - the last step. Further, there’s rarely a problem with chatter or hang-up or slicing with the card scraper.
The situation I’m describing is using the scraping plane with the microtooth setup to take away shallow tearout while retaining the dimensional trueness that the machinery gave. Then finish off with a conventionally sharpened blade.
But hey, it can’t hurt to experiment and maybe your idea will suit your work, but no big loss if it doesn’t. There’s always more for all of us to discover!

Rob

]]> By: aaron http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/07/20/working-with-the-veritas-scraping-plane-part-3-microtoothing/#comment-11055 aaron Wed, 21 Jul 2010 20:34:44 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=839#comment-11055 I'm interested to know why you dont think there's a reason to use it on the card scraper? Like you say, at worst I'll mess up a $5 tool - really only 1 edge of 8 and one that I use least, anyway. I’m interested to know why you dont think there’s a reason to use it on the card scraper? Like you say, at worst I’ll mess up a $5 tool - really only 1 edge of 8 and one that I use least, anyway.

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