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	<title>Comments on: Choose a finish at the start: 3 examples</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/</link>
	<description>inside the woodshop</description>
	<pubDate>Mon, 06 Feb 2012 03:11:28 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: David Hite</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/#comment-4521</link>
		<dc:creator>David Hite</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jan 2010 21:02:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=598#comment-4521</guid>
		<description>Rob,

No, a viewer wouldn't have to have a physical copy of the card. Many photo editing programs allow you to point to a specific area in a photo to tell the program that that area is a neutral color -- in other words, equal intensity of red, green, and blue (or cyan, magenta, and yellow, depending on the color model). By making the three color components equal for that area, the program is able to do the best possible job making the other colors in the photo as close as possible to the original. 

Any grey area in a picture can serve that purpose. The standard 18% grey cards are just a convenient way to achieve that.

David</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Rob,</p>
<p>No, a viewer wouldn&#8217;t have to have a physical copy of the card. Many photo editing programs allow you to point to a specific area in a photo to tell the program that that area is a neutral color &#8212; in other words, equal intensity of red, green, and blue (or cyan, magenta, and yellow, depending on the color model). By making the three color components equal for that area, the program is able to do the best possible job making the other colors in the photo as close as possible to the original. </p>
<p>Any grey area in a picture can serve that purpose. The standard 18% grey cards are just a convenient way to achieve that.</p>
<p>David</p>
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		<title>By: Rob</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/#comment-4505</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jan 2010 02:07:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=598#comment-4505</guid>
		<description>Tico,
I found Zinsser Sealcoat (blonde, dewaxed) cut to about a one-pound cut from its original two-pound, gave more added color than I want. Maybe a true bleached shellac would work well, but I haven't tried that. 

David H.,
I think that if put a reference neutral gray in the photos, a viewer would have to have a physical copy of that color with which to adjust his monitor to presumably make the other colors show as intended. But...I'm not sure about that.

In any case, the handle is black/extremely dark brown with medium brown stripes. The unfinished pear is a dark salmon. The unfinished P.O. cedar is a slightly yellowish straw color. I hope this helps.

David G.
Sure. Please see the earlier post:
http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/17/my-starting-lineup-of-finishes/
And please note the succeeding post about Bartley's.

Thanks for reading.

Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Tico,<br />
I found Zinsser Sealcoat (blonde, dewaxed) cut to about a one-pound cut from its original two-pound, gave more added color than I want. Maybe a true bleached shellac would work well, but I haven&#8217;t tried that. </p>
<p>David H.,<br />
I think that if put a reference neutral gray in the photos, a viewer would have to have a physical copy of that color with which to adjust his monitor to presumably make the other colors show as intended. But&#8230;I&#8217;m not sure about that.</p>
<p>In any case, the handle is black/extremely dark brown with medium brown stripes. The unfinished pear is a dark salmon. The unfinished P.O. cedar is a slightly yellowish straw color. I hope this helps.</p>
<p>David G.<br />
Sure. Please see the earlier post:<br />
<a href="http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/17/my-starting-lineup-of-finishes/" rel="nofollow">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/17/my-starting-lineup-of-finishes/</a><br />
And please note the succeeding post about Bartley&#8217;s.</p>
<p>Thanks for reading.</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: David Gendron</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/#comment-4487</link>
		<dc:creator>David Gendron</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2010 22:17:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=598#comment-4487</guid>
		<description>Good day. realy nice and informative post! Would it be possible to include some brand name with your product description, like the water based poly-acrylic you mension above?
Thank you.
David</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good day. realy nice and informative post! Would it be possible to include some brand name with your product description, like the water based poly-acrylic you mension above?<br />
Thank you.<br />
David</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: David Hite</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/#comment-4485</link>
		<dc:creator>David Hite</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2010 19:25:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=598#comment-4485</guid>
		<description>Actually, I have an idea for calibrating the color shots. If you include a neutral color grey in every shot, then it would be simple for anyone viewing your pictures to rebalance the images themselves with a simple photo editing tool like paint.net. They even make grey cards specifically for that purpose. Here's an example. 

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G04VJO/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1264533488

Just a thought...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Actually, I have an idea for calibrating the color shots. If you include a neutral color grey in every shot, then it would be simple for anyone viewing your pictures to rebalance the images themselves with a simple photo editing tool like paint.net. They even make grey cards specifically for that purpose. Here&#8217;s an example. </p>
<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G04VJO/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1264533488" rel="nofollow">http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G04VJO/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1264533488</a></p>
<p>Just a thought&#8230;</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: David Hite</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/#comment-4483</link>
		<dc:creator>David Hite</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2010 14:34:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=598#comment-4483</guid>
		<description>I read your explanation about color adjustments, but could I ask what kind of monitor you have? Your images look extremely red/orange on all my LCD monitors. When I take them into Paint.net and do an "Auto-level", the colors change so dramatically that I'm not sure I'm looking at anything even close to what you intend. 

How would you describe the color of the handle in your first picture? Patina'd bronze or metallic dark blue/black?

Here's a link to Paint.net (it's free) if you're interested.

http://www.getpaint.net/</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I read your explanation about color adjustments, but could I ask what kind of monitor you have? Your images look extremely red/orange on all my LCD monitors. When I take them into Paint.net and do an &#8220;Auto-level&#8221;, the colors change so dramatically that I&#8217;m not sure I&#8217;m looking at anything even close to what you intend. </p>
<p>How would you describe the color of the handle in your first picture? Patina&#8217;d bronze or metallic dark blue/black?</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a link to Paint.net (it&#8217;s free) if you&#8217;re interested.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.getpaint.net/" rel="nofollow">http://www.getpaint.net/</a></p>
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		<title>By: Tico vogt</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2010/01/26/choose-a-finish-at-the-start-3-examples/#comment-4479</link>
		<dc:creator>Tico vogt</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Jan 2010 12:53:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=598#comment-4479</guid>
		<description>Good post, Rob. In your experience, what is the advantage, or is there, with the poly-acrylic on the cedar over a clear shellac?

Thanks</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Good post, Rob. In your experience, what is the advantage, or is there, with the poly-acrylic on the cedar over a clear shellac?</p>
<p>Thanks</p>
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