Comments on: How much camber should be in plane irons? http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/ inside the woodshop Wed, 16 May 2012 14:51:37 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: Camber With a Honing Guide | Popular Woodworking Magazine http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-76163 Camber With a Honing Guide | Popular Woodworking Magazine Thu, 27 Oct 2011 17:47:44 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-76163 [...] And what is the desired effect? You want to take the widest shaving possible without the corners of the cutter digging in. There is math here. Having a .005" arc-to-chord curve at 45Ã?° results in a curve of .0035" being exposed out of the mouth. (If you have a bevel-up plane bedded at 12Ã?°, the same .005" arc-to-chord curve will result in .001" curve being exposed in the mouth , thanks to woodworker Rob Porcaro for the formula.) [...] [...] And what is the desired effect? You want to take the widest shaving possible without the corners of the cutter digging in. There is math here. Having a .005″ arc-to-chord curve at 45Ã?° results in a curve of .0035″ being exposed out of the mouth. (If you have a bevel-up plane bedded at 12Ã?°, the same .005″ arc-to-chord curve will result in .001″ curve being exposed in the mouth , thanks to woodworker Rob Porcaro for the formula.) [...]

]]> By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-2064 Rob Thu, 13 Aug 2009 02:54:22 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-2064 Vlad, That is a small aluminum square which is handy for checking edges for square or camber. It can be found at: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020077/18891/Pinnacle-Precision-Mini-Square.aspx Rob Vlad,

That is a small aluminum square which is handy for checking edges for square or camber. It can be found at:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020077/18891/Pinnacle-Precision-Mini-Square.aspx

Rob

]]> By: Vlad http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-2063 Vlad Thu, 13 Aug 2009 02:41:41 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-2063 Hi! Realy interesting article!!! i have one short question: what kind of square do you hold in your hand on photo? Thank you! Hi!
Realy interesting article!!!
i have one short question: what kind of square do you hold in your hand on photo?
Thank you!

]]> By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-2040 Rob Mon, 10 Aug 2009 18:47:44 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-2040 Hi Stuart, Thanks for the comment. Yea, I think a jack would be a good plane to start for learning to camber the blade. Hey, no way are you going to ruin the blade - if it doesn't come out right, just bring it back to the sharpening station. If anything, there's a tendency to over do it when creating camber, especially for the little bit required for a smoothing plane. Good luck and let me know if I can help. Rob Hi Stuart,

Thanks for the comment. Yea, I think a jack would be a good plane to start for learning to camber the blade. Hey, no way are you going to ruin the blade – if it doesn’t come out right, just bring it back to the sharpening station. If anything, there’s a tendency to over do it when creating camber, especially for the little bit required for a smoothing plane. Good luck and let me know if I can help.

Rob

]]> By: Stuart http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-2031 Stuart Mon, 10 Aug 2009 09:45:04 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-2031 Interesting post Rob - thanks. I have the camber roller accessory for the Veritas MkII, but have never used it 'in anger', as much because I've not researched when or why it is particularly beneficial to have a camber, combined with a concern that I wouldn't want to wreck a good blade by doing it at the wrong time, for the wrong plane. Your article goes into the extra depth that I need to start to appreciate the justifications for a camber, (as well as how much!), so thank you for that! If I was to start with any plane, I'm guessing my Jack Plane would particularly benefit from a camber, and my smoothing plane less so (it is currently very straight, and very sharp, and I'd be hesitant to risk that blade, initially at least). Stu Interesting post Rob – thanks. I have the camber roller accessory for the Veritas MkII, but have never used it ‘in anger’, as much because I’ve not researched when or why it is particularly beneficial to have a camber, combined with a concern that I wouldn’t want to wreck a good blade by doing it at the wrong time, for the wrong plane.

Your article goes into the extra depth that I need to start to appreciate the justifications for a camber, (as well as how much!), so thank you for that!

If I was to start with any plane, I’m guessing my Jack Plane would particularly benefit from a camber, and my smoothing plane less so (it is currently very straight, and very sharp, and I’d be hesitant to risk that blade, initially at least).

Stu

]]> By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-1336 Rob Sun, 24 May 2009 05:30:14 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-1336 Hi Tico, I suggest go with your intuition and monitor the feedback from the plane's performance. For reference, I just went back into the shop and measured (first time!) the blade in the picture which goes in my low-angle, bevel-up smoother. I could just fit a .005" or .006" leaf gauge under each side of the arc of the edge. It's a new blade that I sharpened to a steep bevel for figured wood so I'm not sure if that camber will work out but I'll soon find out. I have an old Ulmia wooden scrub plane and I just measured the blade's camber - the radius is 1 1/4". That huge camber allows the plane to take a deep bite diagonally across the grain to take down thickness fast. I use a little pressure on my Tormek bar to grind a camber and then refine it with waterstones. I have never used the Odate plates. Rob Hi Tico,

I suggest go with your intuition and monitor the feedback from the plane’s performance. For reference, I just went back into the shop and measured (first time!) the blade in the picture which goes in my low-angle, bevel-up smoother. I could just fit a .005″ or .006″ leaf gauge under each side of the arc of the edge. It’s a new blade that I sharpened to a steep bevel for figured wood so I’m not sure if that camber will work out but I’ll soon find out.

I have an old Ulmia wooden scrub plane and I just measured the blade’s camber – the radius is 1 1/4″. That huge camber allows the plane to take a deep bite diagonally across the grain to take down thickness fast.

I use a little pressure on my Tormek bar to grind a camber and then refine it with waterstones. I have never used the Odate plates.

Rob

]]> By: Rob http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-1335 Rob Sun, 24 May 2009 05:03:38 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-1335 Thanks Ethan. I try to bank those "click" feelings to balance the next time I screw up something. Rob Thanks Ethan. I try to bank those “click” feelings to balance the next time I screw up something.

Rob

]]> By: tico vogt http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-1333 tico vogt Sun, 24 May 2009 00:23:06 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-1333 So, I guess the answer to the question you pose is; "if you have to ask, you'll never know." I'm always impressed by those, like yourself, who have an aptitude with trigonometry, and can apply that knowledge the way you have demonstrated above. When I try to go there, a physiological mental dulling response kicks in. That's when you save the day by bringing in the direct approach. Have you ever checked out the lapping plate created in cooperation with Toshio Odate? It is expensive, and the camber, of course, fixed, but it would be endlessly repeatable. If it suited you needs, maybe a good investment. A scrub plane is a bench plane I don't yet own. The cambering blades I've used so far are on #5 and #6 bench planes, and the subtle cambers over the 2" and 2 5/8" widths are fairly subtle. Do you have a general rule of thumb for the curvature of scrub plane irons? Thanks, Tico So, I guess the answer to the question you pose is; “if you have to ask, you’ll never know.”

I’m always impressed by those, like yourself, who have an aptitude with trigonometry, and can apply that knowledge the way you have demonstrated above. When I try to go there, a physiological mental dulling
response kicks in. That’s when you save the day by bringing in the direct approach.

Have you ever checked out the lapping plate created in cooperation with Toshio Odate? It is expensive, and the camber, of course, fixed, but it would be endlessly repeatable. If it suited you needs, maybe a good investment.

A scrub plane is a bench plane I don’t yet own. The cambering blades I’ve used so far are on #5 and #6 bench planes, and the subtle cambers over the 2″ and 2 5/8″ widths are fairly subtle. Do you have a general rule of thumb for the curvature of scrub plane irons?

Thanks,

Tico

]]> By: Ethan http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/05/21/how-much-camber-should-be-in-plane-irons/#comment-1319 Ethan Fri, 22 May 2009 16:39:13 +0000 http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=405#comment-1319 I had a wonderful "A-HA!" moment at a handplane class with Chris Schwarz when I figured out squaring the edge of a board with a cambered blade. With a high spot on the right, I adjusted the plane's position on the edge to put the center of the camber over the high spot. Two swipes later and the edge was dead square. What an amazing feeling it is when a technique "clicks" and you finally get it! Great entry, Rob. I had a wonderful “A-HA!” moment at a handplane class with Chris Schwarz when I figured out squaring the edge of a board with a cambered blade.

With a high spot on the right, I adjusted the plane’s position on the edge to put the center of the camber over the high spot.

Two swipes later and the edge was dead square.

What an amazing feeling it is when a technique “clicks” and you finally get it!

Great entry, Rob.

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