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	<title>Comments on: The Router table &#8211; How to keep it simple, part 2</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/</link>
	<description>inside the woodshop</description>
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		<title>By: Rob</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/#comment-1781</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2009 21:43:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=370#comment-1781</guid>
		<description>Ike,

Any oil-varnish mix, such as the widely available Watco &quot;Danish Oil&quot; or Minwax &quot;Antique Oil Finish,&quot; would work well. I used whatever of this type of finish that I had on hand when I made the table. Good luck with your router table.

Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ike,</p>
<p>Any oil-varnish mix, such as the widely available Watco &#8220;Danish Oil&#8221; or Minwax &#8220;Antique Oil Finish,&#8221; would work well. I used whatever of this type of finish that I had on hand when I made the table. Good luck with your router table.</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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		<title>By: ike</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/#comment-1771</link>
		<dc:creator>ike</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2009 02:09:55 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=370#comment-1771</guid>
		<description>what did you use as a finnish for the mdf top on the router?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>what did you use as a finnish for the mdf top on the router?</p>
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		<title>By: Rob</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/#comment-1381</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2009 18:21:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=370#comment-1381</guid>
		<description>Hi Carl,

I&#039;ve had no problem at all with the F clamps loosening. Were that the case, their name would apply to more than their shape. 

The fence design, like just about everything we woodworkers do, is a conglomeration of ideas, a few mine, more from sources I&#039;ve long forgotten. I hope the fence works well for your students. Feel free to refer them to the posts to view the pictures and description.

Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Carl,</p>
<p>I&#8217;ve had no problem at all with the F clamps loosening. Were that the case, their name would apply to more than their shape. </p>
<p>The fence design, like just about everything we woodworkers do, is a conglomeration of ideas, a few mine, more from sources I&#8217;ve long forgotten. I hope the fence works well for your students. Feel free to refer them to the posts to view the pictures and description.</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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		<title>By: Carl Stammerjohn</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/#comment-1380</link>
		<dc:creator>Carl Stammerjohn</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2009 15:54:52 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=370#comment-1380</guid>
		<description>Just came across this post...

I&#039;m curious about the F-clamps.  I use C-clamps for my fence; F-clamps seem much more likely to loosen under vibration.  Have you experienced this?

I really like the fence design; I hope you don&#039;t mind if I use it for a router table class I&#039;m teaching in the fall.

Thanks,
Carl Stammerjohn</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Just came across this post&#8230;</p>
<p>I&#8217;m curious about the F-clamps.  I use C-clamps for my fence; F-clamps seem much more likely to loosen under vibration.  Have you experienced this?</p>
<p>I really like the fence design; I hope you don&#8217;t mind if I use it for a router table class I&#8217;m teaching in the fall.</p>
<p>Thanks,<br />
Carl Stammerjohn</p>
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	<item>
		<title>By: Rob</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/#comment-1025</link>
		<dc:creator>Rob</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Apr 2009 19:27:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=370#comment-1025</guid>
		<description>Ethan,

Haha, yea, I never thought of that but the spiral notebook theme does look similar to the Knapp (cove and pin) joint. I did a little hunting and found that Woodworker&#039;s Supply lists a discontinued patented router jig dedicated to this joint. They also make a template for the joint to be used in their Matchmaker router machine. Fine Woodworking, July/August 1986, #59, pp. 74-75, has an article, &quot;Cove and Pin Joint&quot;, by David Gray, that describes making the joint with a drill press, plug cutter, and a modified gouge. Interesting, but I think I&#039;ll stick with dovetails.

Thanks for the encouraging words.

Rob</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Ethan,</p>
<p>Haha, yea, I never thought of that but the spiral notebook theme does look similar to the Knapp (cove and pin) joint. I did a little hunting and found that Woodworker&#8217;s Supply lists a discontinued patented router jig dedicated to this joint. They also make a template for the joint to be used in their Matchmaker router machine. Fine Woodworking, July/August 1986, #59, pp. 74-75, has an article, &#8220;Cove and Pin Joint&#8221;, by David Gray, that describes making the joint with a drill press, plug cutter, and a modified gouge. Interesting, but I think I&#8217;ll stick with dovetails.</p>
<p>Thanks for the encouraging words.</p>
<p>Rob</p>
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		<title>By: Ethan</title>
		<link>http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/2009/04/16/the-router-table-how-to-keep-it-simple-part-2/#comment-1024</link>
		<dc:creator>Ethan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 17 Apr 2009 16:38:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.rpwoodwork.com/blog/?p=370#comment-1024</guid>
		<description>Speaking of routers, Rob...

Did you know that the design of your blog page looks a whole lot like a Knapp joint?  I think that was one of the first attempts at making a better machine-made drawer joint; dates from somewhere between 1890 and 1910 or so.  It was made with a router cutting &quot;pins&quot; on the drawer face and making the holes on the drawer sides.

I have a night stand and a chest of drawers that have drawers made with this joinery.  I like them because you can easily date the furniture to within 20 years (and they generally are found on simple, almost Eastlake-style pieces, which I like).

Oh, great job on the entries about how your shop uses &quot;simpler&quot; setups to achieve great results.

That&#039;s the kind of stuff people (including yours truly) need to read more about.

Thanks,

Ethan</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Speaking of routers, Rob&#8230;</p>
<p>Did you know that the design of your blog page looks a whole lot like a Knapp joint?  I think that was one of the first attempts at making a better machine-made drawer joint; dates from somewhere between 1890 and 1910 or so.  It was made with a router cutting &#8220;pins&#8221; on the drawer face and making the holes on the drawer sides.</p>
<p>I have a night stand and a chest of drawers that have drawers made with this joinery.  I like them because you can easily date the furniture to within 20 years (and they generally are found on simple, almost Eastlake-style pieces, which I like).</p>
<p>Oh, great job on the entries about how your shop uses &#8220;simpler&#8221; setups to achieve great results.</p>
<p>That&#8217;s the kind of stuff people (including yours truly) need to read more about.</p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Ethan</p>
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